Hatio care at home: a photo of the plant, especially the cultivation, reproduction and pruning of the flower, as well as why the cactus withers and there are various problems

Hatiora is a perennial plant of the Cactus family, an elegant cactus without thorns. Its homeland is Brazil, where it grows in tropical forests and rocky terrain.

Hatiora is predominantly an epiphyte, less often lithophyte, reaches a height of one and a half meters, and in room conditions it rarely exceeds 50 cm. Features of care for the hatiora are to create special climatic conditions for her.

How to care?

The plant has a unique shape of stems, consisting of segments (flat, pin-shaped or cylindrical). In shape, the hatiora bush is surprisingly reminiscent of coral thickets. In the wild, it can grow up to 2 meters tall.

In order for this tropical plant to feel comfortable in the apartment, it is necessary to adhere to the rules of its maintenance. It is also important to know that this flower has a rest period, and it begins in late September. Hatiora blooms in December and February.

There are no more than 10 species of hatiora botany, at home only some of them can grow:

Hatiora is saltwater.
Hatiora Germina.
Hatior Gartner.
Hatiora's bamboo.
Pink hatiora.

For all domestic varieties of Hatori, the conditions of detention are the same.

Temperature

The air temperature in the room where the hator is located should be constant, without sudden changes: in the warm season, 25-28^aboutC, by winter it is necessary to gradually reduce the temperature to 10-15^aboutFROM. Drafts should not be allowed. In summer, you can bring a flower to a balcony or terrace, but so that the sun does not bake and heavy rain does not pour.

Watering

Hatiora is hygrophilous, and it needs to be watered often and little by little, but care must be taken to ensure that the soil does not become swampy. Also need flower and spraying, which must be carried out regularly. Dry air in the room will cause the plant to slow growth and not be able to bloom. At rest, however, it is not recommended to spray the hatorior, and watering will have to be reduced to 2 times a week.

Important: water for irrigation of the hatiora should be soft, and the plant should not be watered under the root, but along the edge of the soil in a pot, otherwise the root will rot and it will be impossible to save the flower. Hatiora’s roots are very tender.

Shine

Despite the fact that this is a tropical plant, it does not need and even harmful bright light. Under natural conditions, it rarely grows in open places, preferring to wrap tree trunks with lush greenery, which create support for it and protect it from bright light.

therefore in indoor conditions, the hatorou also should not be placed on the south side under direct sunlight. The ideal option is diffused light on the eastern or western windows. If there is no alternative to the southern windows, then the flower must be moved away or shaded from sunlight. And if the windows face only the north side, the flower will have to be illuminated, otherwise it will stretch out and not be able to bloom.

Pruning

The flower does not need pruning, most often this means the removal of dried parts. But if the owner has a desire to create a thick lush crown, then the plant will transfer this procedure without problems. To constantly form new segments, their number must be regulated by pinching.

Twigs will be bifurcated, the bush will become more magnificent, and more flowers in the new season. Hachior can be given an ampelous appearance by pinching segments at the same distance from their growth point. Hatoria stems are very fragile, when trimming, it is better to act with a thin secateurs.

Priming

Hatiora loves loose, loose, slightly acidic soil that can let air through to the roots. A well-purchased mixture for cacti and succulents. You can prepare the soil yourself from the following components in equal proportions:

river sand;
turf;
peat (upper fertile layer);
sheet earth.

Attention: Before planting, such a soil must be calcined in the oven for an hour to protect the flower from diseases and pests. Also, to disinfect the soil, you can use a weak solution of potassium permanganate. At the bottom of the pot, you must definitely lay out a good layer of drainage.

Top dressing

Hatiora does not require a large number of additional minerals, especially in spring and autumn. But in the winter, she will like phosphate fertilizers, which will make the flowering plentiful, and in the summer she needs a little more potassium to enhance growth. Large amounts of nitrogen are best avoided. The fertilizer should not contain calcium / lime.

Transfer

Young plants are transplanted annually into freer containerswhen the flowering period ends and spring comes. When the flower reaches 3 years of age, the next transplant can be done in 3 years. If the hator is very large and overgrown, one transplant every 5 years is enough.

Since the roots of the hatiora are very fragile and located close to the surface, it is necessary to be very careful when transplanting. The sequence of operations during a transplant is as follows:

The earthen lump is separated from the pot wall by the blunt side of the knife.
The pot is tilted to one side, holding the plant by the stem, and, gently tapping the walls, they pull out an earthen lump along with the hator.
Old soil must be very carefully removed and inspected the roots of the plant for damage, rotten remove.
A layer of drainage and a little soil are poured into the bottom of the new pot, a depression is made in it.
The hator is carefully placed in the recess and the earth is poured to the walls of the new tank, carefully watered and after the subsidence of the soil it is poured a little more.

Pot

The best container for the hator - a not very deep pot with drainage holes and the same width and height, the material can be any. Its diameter should leave 1 cm of free space around the circumference for future root growth.

Rest period

Hatiora wintering occurs in the fall. During this period, the plant accumulates strength so that in the winter months - when in its homeland, in Brazil, summer - to please the owners with flowering. Starting in September, the water is reduced to two times a week by the hatori, feeding is stopped completely and the flower is placed in a cool place where the temperature does not exceed 15^aboutFROM.

In November, small thickenings appear on the tops of the branches. This means that soon they will turn into buds and it is time to return to the previous regime of flower maintenance.

Photo

Next, you can see the photo of the plant:

Post-purchase content

After the purchase, the flowers of the hatoria often fade quickly, the buds fall off, and the plant itself withers. It is important to remember that the flower was previously kept in greenhouse conditions, treated with drugs to enhance flowering, and that the new conditions for it are stressful. therefore it is important to create the most favorable living conditions and care.

Outdoor cultivation

Hatiora in the garden feels comfortable in an area where the climate is close to the tropical Brazilian. In the middle lane it is difficult to provide it with similar conditions and protect it from pests and diseases. However, in the summer, on the balcony, subject to lighting and watering conditions, it will give a good increase.

Breeding

Hatiora easily rooted by cuttings of any lengthhaving at least one knee. It is enough to put a small shoot in the water, and the roots will appear in a week or two, after which the plant is ready for planting in the ground. Even segments that break off from the flower and fall into the ground next to it take root.

Read more about hatiora breeding in this article.

Disease

Like other plants, the hator is also susceptible to disease. Find out why the plant withers, dots and bloom appear:

Disease or pest	Symptoms	Treatment
Fusarium	The appearance of rot in certain areas, spreading to the entire plant.	Complete removal of affected areas.
Phytophthora	The stems turn gray. Near the root neck appears rot.	"Oksikhom": spraying with a solution - dilute 5 g of the drug in 2.5 l of water, apply three times a day for 2 weeks.
Shield	Reddish-brown tubercles on stems. The plant stops growing.	"Fitoverm": spraying with a solution - 5 ml per 1 liter of water, three times every 7 days.
Spider mite	Black dots on the plant (bite marks). Flower drying out.	"Fitoverm": spraying with a solution - 5 ml per 1 liter of water, three times every 7 days.
Mealybug	White plaque on a flower. Falling buds and segments.	A single spraying of “Aktara” in a concentration of 4 g per 5 l of water.
Few buds, no blooms	Poor soil. Lack of rest period.	Top dressing. Creating suitable conditions during dormancy and vegetation.
Shrinking segments	Dry air with sufficient watering.	Regular spraying.
Shrinking segments, bud dropping	Cold air. Inadequate watering.	Move the flower to a warmer place. Water and spray more often.
The plant wilt	Excess sun. Cold. Dry or too hot air. Drafts. Rotting of the roots.	Create diffuse lighting. Find a suitable air temperature. Spray. Avoid drafts and stagnation of water. Add drainage to the bottom of the pot. Drain excess water from the sub-base.
The plant almost does not branch	Nutrient deficiency.	Organize feeding.

The stems of this flower can break off under their own weight, so they need support. They can be tied up, or you can create a flower of the condition for epiphytic existence.

Hatiora is a real decoration of the house, and care for it is considered average in complexity. This amazing plant will always delight its owners with an unusual look and beautiful flowering, if you take care of it and create suitable conditions for it.